Replacing the Full Hotend Assembly¶
Sometimes, a simple cleaning or part replacement isn't enough. A catastrophic leak that encases the heater block in plastic, a broken heatbreak, or simply upgrading to a new model may require replacing the entire hotend assembly.
Safety First: Hot Components & Electricity
Before you begin, ensure the printer is completely cool and unplugged from the wall outlet.
Procedure¶
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Access the Hotend: First, you need to get clear access to the hotend. On the Stealthburner toolhead, this typically involves removing the front fan shroud and possibly the part cooling fan duct.
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Disconnect Wiring: Carefully disconnect the wires for the heater cartridge, thermistor, and the hotend cooling fan. If you have a toolhead PCB, unplug them from the board. Otherwise, disconnect them from their respective connectors in the wiring harness.
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Unmount the Old Hotend: Locate the main mounting screws that hold the hotend to the extruder body (e.g., the "groove mount"). Unscrew these and carefully remove the entire hotend assembly from the toolhead.
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Install the New Hotend: Mount the new hotend assembly, making sure it is fully seated and aligned correctly. Fasten the mounting screws securely.
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Reconnect Wiring: Neatly connect the wires for the new heater, thermistor, and fan. Ensure the connections are secure and there are no exposed wires that could short.
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Reassemble Toolhead: Re-attach the toolhead shroud and any other parts you removed.
Calibration is Mandatory After Replacement
After replacing the entire hotend, you must perform the following calibrations before printing: * PID Tune: The new heater will have different properties. A PID tune is essential for stable temperatures. * Z-Offset Calibration: The new hotend's length may be slightly different. You must re-calibrate your Z-offset to get a correct first layer.